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Question of the Week 11-2-09
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Q: What's the difference between Dutch-processed cocoa and other cocoas?

A: Dutch-processed cocoa has been treated with a chemical, such as potassium carbonate, to reduce the natural acidity of the cocoa beans. The process, called Dutching, softens the sharpness and fruitiness of the cocoa flavor and develops flavors that are toasty, espresso-like or sometimes even tea-like. Dutching also darkens the cocoa to an appetizing rich, deep reddish-brown color; extreme Dutching results in the distinctively flavored charcoal-black cocoa used to make Oreo cookies. Dutch-processed cocoa may or may not be labeled as such, but "cocoa processed wtih alkali" should appear on the ingredient statement.

Some cooks appreciate the unique mellow flavor of Dutch-processed cocoa, while others prefer the sharper, fruitier flavor of natural cocoa. In most recipes, the two types are interchangeable. However, if a recipe contains leavenings (baking soda or baking powder), stick to the cocoa type that's specified. If there's no specific recommendation and the leavening is baking soda, use natural cocoa. In cake recipes containing leavenings, the wrong cocoa may result in a dense center streak of batter that doesn't rise; it can also produce a dark charcoal color with a pudding-like texture and soapy flavor.

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